“There are a lot of places I like, but I like New Orleans better.”
– Bob Dylan
In a way I'm writing this post as a travelogue to share my experiences and recommendations so you might be inspired to visit this fun and vibrant city. I'm also writing it as a thank you to my beautiful friend Jules - who hosted us in her adopted city and planned everything impeccably. It's also a love letter to New Orleans for being the most FUN, colorful, hospitable, resilient and friendly place I've visited in a long time - maybe ever!
So where to start? How about with this:
"Laissez les bons temps rouler!"
which is Cajun French for "Let the good times roll!" That is indeed what we did from the minute we landed!
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| Our host Jules (left), me and Sienna (right) donning our fabulous headdresses that Jules had custom made for us in our astrological signs! We were so surprised and delighted by this gift. They are truly wearable pieces of art. |
This was my third trip to New Orleans. Each time it gets better. And to be honest I didn't love NOLA - or even like it much - on my first visit which was for work. But after this last trip, I feel like I've got the "bug!" It's hard to describe - but NOLA is 'slightly' addictive for its food, music, art, culture and overall vibrancy! It has such a rich history, and it's a city of extremes. The people "live out loud!" Everything is full on! Or as my friend Jules likes to say: "More! More! More!"
The people of NOLA are warm, open, and friendly - they exude a certain kind of Southern charm that is very welcoming. Expressions I heard quite often everywhere we went: "How ya doin' y'all?" and "Thanks y'all."
In many ways NOLA feels like the complete opposite of where I live in Seattle. It was refreshing and the perfect way to kick off 2023 and set the tone for a FUN year ahead. My fellow traveler Sienna's word of the year for 2023 is FUN and Jules' word of the year is QUEEN! Themes you'll hopefully observe in the following post.
So, without further ado, I invite you on quick three-day trip to NOLA with my friends Jules and Sienna!
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FUN FACT #1: New Orleans' nickname "The Big Easy" was allegedly coined in the 1960s by New Orleans gossip columnist Betty Guillaud while comparing 'the Big Easy' to 'the Big Apple.' While New Yorkers were perpetually running around, laid-back life in New Orleans reigned, hence, The Big Easy. Although like make things in life, there are other theories. You can read them here.
LET'S GET THIS PARTY STARTED!
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| Our first night started with happy hour in the Paradise Lounge at the Hotel Saint Vincent followed by dinner at the hotel’s San Lorenzo restaurant, which was fabulous. |
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This piece of art on the
floor was half-way done when we saw it before dinner. We were delighted to see
it completed when we stepped into the super cool Chapel Club at the Hotel Saint
Vincent for an after-dinner drink. |
FUN FACT #2: NOLA is an acronym for New Orleans, Louisiana. Although NOLA first started to appear in the early 1900s, it was popularized in media coverage and by millennials following Hurricane Katrina which hit New Orleans in 2005.
THE NEXT DAY
Our first morning, we enjoyed a nice walk around the Loop at Audubon Park in the historic uptown district situated near Tulane University.
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| Beautiful fountain at the entrance to Audubon Park. |
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| Magnificent live oak tree in Audubon Park! |
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| Meditation Walk anyone? |
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FUN
FACT #3: Mardi Gras starts
on the 6th of January every year and runs until Fat Tuesday which was February
21 this year. In New Orleans the majority of the Mardi Gras celebrations are
held in the two weeks leading up to Fat Tuesday.
GALS LUNCH!
Next up on our Friday agenda, lunch at the infamous Galatoire’s restaurant, a New Orleans institution since 1905. Our “Gals Lunch” lasted 4.5 hours!!
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| Our fabulous server Mignon (pictured here center) provided impeccable service, fun stories and lots of texture to our incredible experience. |
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| When in NOLA… I had Shrimp Creole for lunch at Galatoire’s! It was divine! Check out their menu here. Your mouth will water! |
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FUN FACT #4: The term Creole is highly debated and holds no official definition. Historians have defined Creole as meaning anything from an ethnic group consisting of individuals with European and African, Caribbean or Hispanic descent to individuals born in New Orleans with French or Spanish ancestry. However someone defines it, it is clear that many elements of New Orleans’ history, art, food and more are due to Creole contributions. (Source: Neworleans.com)
THE FUN CONTINUES...
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| On our way to see live music at Preservation Hall in the French Quarter, we stopped at The French 75 Bar for, well, a French 75 cocktail! “In New Orleans, culture doesn't come down from on high -- it bubbles up from, the streets.” – Ellis Marsalis |
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| Outside Preservation Hall, in the heart of the French Quarter. The “Hall” is a small, intimate venue that presents traditional acoustic New Orleans Jazz concerts featuring ensembles from a collective of 50+ musicians. |
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| Inside Preservation Hall with band director and trumpeter Mark Braud after the show. He told us he was in Seattle in December playing with Harry Connick, Jr. (Star struck!) |
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We ended our epic day at
the famous Carousel Bar in the Hotel Monteleone, a long-time favorite New
Orleans hotspot and the city’s only revolving bar. |
It's kind of amazing all that we experienced in our first full day in NOLA. It was so fun and exhilarating. From here, we headed back to our fabulous flat (see below) for a restful night's sleep.
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FUN FACT #5: The traditional colors of Mardi Gras are purple, green and gold. These are said to have been chosen in 1892 when the Rex Paradetheme "Symbolism of Colors" gave the colors their meanings. Purple - Justice. Green - Faith. Gold - Power.
SATURDAY - KING CAKE, E-BIKES AND MORE!
Our Saturday agenda called for more fun - of course! First things first: we had traditional Mardi Gras King cake with our coffee. It was a big treat! And I got the golden baby in my piece of cake! Lucky me!
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| Our flat was stocked with a full set of gorgeous China! Swoon! |
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| Jules' favorite King cake from Dong Phoung bakery. |
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FUN FACT #6: King cake is said to have originated in Old World France and Spain and came to be associated with Epiphany during the Middle Ages. When it was brought to the New World (along with Catholicism and Christianity), the tradition evolved further. In New Orleans, King cake and Mardi Gras go hand in hand: The cakes can be found starting in early January and are available up until Ash Wednesday and the start of Lent. (Source: Eater.com)
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| I got the "lucky baby" in my piece of King cake! Legend has it that the person who gets the symbolic bean or baby baked into the King cake is said to have good luck in the coming year and they must host next year's Mardis Gras celebration. |
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| We started our tour along the banks of the Mighty Mississippi. As you can tell it was a gorgeous day. It was unseasonably cold so we bundled up. |
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| Sienna and Jules listen attentively to our funny and fabulous tour guide, with the Mississippi River behind them. |
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| One of the highlights of our e-bike tour was visiting one of the largest cemeteries in New Orleans and learning about their above-ground burial practice of following the Spanish custom of using vaults instead of graves. |
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| Another highlight of the tour was riding through City Park. Pictured here, a famous stone bridge over a preserved section of the bayou in the City Park Conservatory. |
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FUN FACT #7: City Park is one of the largest and most visited urban parks in the U.S. It is 50% larger than New York’s Central Park.
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| And yet another highlight! Cafe au lait and beignets at Café du Monde in City Park. |
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| Degas' house is now a bed and breakfast and wedding venue. |
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To
honor the 100th anniversary of Degas’ death, the Degas House unveiled
a copy of his most famous sculpture, “Little Dancer of 14 Years” in the front
courtyard for all to see! |
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| I couldn't resist of pic of Jules' Mardi Gras shoes! |
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| All good things must come to an end. We concluded our three-hour bike tour at Louis Armstrong Park. |
But of course, the fun did not end there. The afternoon included another delicious meal and shopping at eclectic boutiques on Magazine Street.
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| We enjoyed a delicious French-Vietnamese lunch and afternoon cocktails at Elizabeth Street Café, located on the beautiful Hotel Saint Vincent grounds in the Lower Garden District. It was unseasonably cold, but we loved sitting in the sun in the brightly-colored garden courtyard surrounded by palm trees. |
Our perfect day ended with a special dinner at Coquette. This Lower Garden District restaurant serves contemporary southern cuisine with an emphasis on locally sourced ingredients and international inspiration. We opted for the 5 Course Blind Tasting Menu with wine pairings. It was fabulous! Coquette’s chef recently received a James Beard nomination. Very well deserved.
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| Coquette's take on the classic Negroni cocktail. |
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FUN
FACT #8: Coquette means "a woman who flirts.”
BUT WAIT, THERE'S MORE!
Our hostess with the mostess Jules is known for living life to the fullest. Her motto is "More, more, more!" So on our last day, we had more fun including a fabulous guided tour of the Garden District and a delightful poolside lunch at The Chloe Hotel!
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FUN FACT #9: The Garden District neighborhood was originally developed with only a couple of houses per block, each surrounded by a large garden, giving the district its name. In the late 19th century, some of these large lots were subdivided, as uptown New Orleans became more urban. This has produced a pattern for much of the neighborhood: of any given block having a couple of 19th-century mansions surrounded by "gingerbread"-decorated late Victorian period houses. Thus, the "Garden District" is now known for its architecture more than for its gardens. (Source: Wikipedia)
GARDEN DISTRICT WALKING TOUR
On Sunday morning we met our guide from Two Chicks
Walking Tours who led us on a tour of the Garden District which included opulent
homes (many of which are owned by celebrities and featured in movies and TV
series), fascinating stories and history,
and a visit to Lafayette Cemetery #1. I highly recommend this tour!
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| Colorful house decorated for Mardi Gras in the Garden District. |
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| Magnolia tree in bloom in the front yard of a grand home in the Garden District. |
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| Aperol Spritz and poolside lunch at The Chloe Hotel. |
HOME AWAY FROM HOME
Last but certainly not least, our airbnb, Casabianca on Magazine Street, was PERFECT!! We loved the quiet location above boutiques and a coffee shop, its spacious rooms, deck, and beautiful art and decor.
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| Spacious, comfortable living room. It even has a piano! |
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| I loved this sitting area in my bedroom for writing, relaxing and reminiscing about our fun-filled days! |
I hope you enjoyed your virtual visit to The Big Easy!
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IF YOU GO
Stay
Casabianca: Elegant Flat in Historic Magazine Row
Eat
Breakfast @ La Boulangerie
Lunch @ Galatoire's
Lunch @ Elizabeth Street Café
Lunch @ The Chloe Pool Bar
Dinner @ San Lorenzo Restaurant, Hotel Saint Vincent
Dinner @ Coquette
Drink
Paradise Lounge @ Hotel Saint Vincent
Chapel Club @ Hotel Saint Vincent
Carousel Bar @ Hotel Monteleone
Walk
Ride
Buzz Nola Bike Tours & Bike Rentals New Orleans
Live Music
P.S. ONE MORE THING!
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| Jules (in front) leading us to our fun adventures! |
FUN FACT #10: Jules is a quintessential Leo -- sunny, social, fun, big-hearted and full of bright energy! Hence her Lioness headdress, huge smile, colorful sparkles, and a cocktail for the road! I have absolutely adored Jules since we met in college. Her light keeps getting brighter and more sparkly! I love you, my fabulous Leo soul sister!! You are a Queen!
P.P.S.: I’ve decided to change my word of the year for 2023 to FUN!
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